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Difficulty : average (a little patience and application) Cost : around twenty euros Tools required : - 4 boards (untreated) of identical length and thickness - A handsaw - A grater - One meter - A pencil Optional tools : - A carpenter's square - Stakes to maintain the work
Step 1: Plot
The = this is the spacing between the two notches. The 4 identical for a square, or 2 longer for a rectangle, your choice. e = the thickness of the board. The notch will be equal to the thickness to allow the other boards to fit together. at = arbitrary, but you must leave at least 3 times the width of the notch at each end, because it is the most fragile part of the whole: it can break along the middle axis. l = it is the width of the board, the depth of the notch is equal to half the width.
We start tracing the first notch at 3 times the thickness of the board, then we define the width of the notch equal to the thickness of the board.
If your boards are well defined, use a carpenter's square. Using it is more convenient than reporting multiple measurements with the meter. It also saves time and minimizes the risk of errors.
Always start the measurements from the same side to avoid errors related to variations in the lengths of the boards, in case they are not strictly identical.
Still with the square, transfer the outline of the top to the side and hatch to delimit the area to be removed.
Step 2: Sawing
Hold the board firmly or use a clamp. Do not saw on the line, but just on the border, so that it is always visible, even when the piece is removed.
Step 3: Break
When you have sawed both sides of the notch, you will notice that it is not possible to saw the small part of the bottom parallel to the length of the board. We will use the weakness of the wood in this precise place to "break" this piece using a fine hammer or anything that does not exceed the width of the notch. For example, the breakdown (the side that is not used to drive nails) of a conventional hammer. Position yourself as on the photo above and hit with a sharp blow, the piece breaks exactly where you want it. If the cut is not strictly exact, it does not matter, you will see this during assembly.
Step 4: Adjust
Try to nest the elements, without forcing. If it gets stuck, adjust with the grater. In this photo, the yellow part represents the risk of breakage zone if you file the red zone. So you have to file on the other side, like in this photo.
Step 5 Assemble
Then, it only remains to nest the pieces. The last piece is more difficult to put, it may be necessary to force slightly.
Step 5: Protect
This is a vegetable patch, in which vegetables will grow. You must therefore refrain from any chemical treatment at the risk of finding them on your plate! Which excludes stains, anti-xylophagous treatments, siccatives, thinners. Here, linseed oil only. Tip: to make it penetrate, it must be slightly heated in a double boiler, it will thin and more easily penetrate the wood fiber.
Step 6: Install
You have previously stirred and weeded the small piece of soil under the square. This will allow you to level it more easily by spreading the soil. You can attach two stakes at opposite angles to hold it. If you completely fill the square, it will not be useless to reinforce it with stakes planted outside the center of the boards.
It is not necessarily finished, you can now consider: - If you want to raise your square higher, to superimpose another square maintained by stakes planted in the corners - To place four stakes as here, to join them by wires so as to make a plant climb there (rose, kiwi, tomatoes…) - To make a square “seasoning” (spices, spices…) - To use these stakes to shelter a culture (with a forcing veil, a plastic …) There are only limits of your imagination…